An Announcement (and This Week in Climbing #40)

ANNOUNCEMENT: I’m going to start posting content more regularly to the blog here. In addition to the This Week in Climbing feature, I’ll post another climbing-related article or tip once or twice a week, or maybe even more. We’ll see. A lot of the time it’ll be just a paragraph or two of my own thoughts on a news item or a forum thread on Mountain Project.

If you’ve subscribed to This Week in Climbing, you’ll automatically get the other articles too.

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Here’s all of the best and most interesting rock climbing stuff that happened over the last week. Enjoy, and happy climbing!

Climbing News

AMERICAS

• Canada
  • Canadian Amanda Berezowski Sends Her First 5.14a at Gripped
  • Quebec Sender Emilie Pellerin Sends Her First 5.14a at Gripped
  • Ice Climbing Season Game On in Canadian Rockies at Gripped
  • Canada Comps: Season 14 Tour de Bloc 2016/17 Schedule at Gripped
  • New Rockies Ice Line is Big Game Hunter WI5+ at Gripped
• USA
  • Ondra attempts onsight of the Nose at UK Climbing (See also Gripped.)
  • Dave Graham repeats Creature from the Black lagoon, ~8C+/V16 at UK Climbing (See also Rock & Ice.)
  • Michaela Kiersch Sends Lucifer (5.14c), Red River Gorge at Rock & Ice
  • Joe Kinder Sends New 5.14d/15a Called Bone Tomahawk at Gripped (See also Rock & Ice.)
  • Adam Ondra Continues Work on Dawn Wall Cruxes at Gripped (See also Planet Mountain.)

ASIA

• Luka Lindic and Ines Papert Climb Often-Tried Kokshall-too Alpine at Gripped (See also UK Climbing.)
• Mick Fowler and Victor Saunders make first ascent of Sersank Peak’s north face at Alpinist (See also Planet Mountain.)
• Valery Rozov BASE jumps from 7700m off Cho Oyu at Planet Mountain
• Russians Climb New Thalay Sagar North Face Route at Gripped

EUROPE

• Finland
  • Nalle Hukkataival puts up Burden of Dreams ~9A/V17! at UK Climbing (See also Planet Mountain, Gripped, Rock & Ice, Climbing.)
• Germany
  • Alex Megos repeats The Becoming, 9a+ (5.15a) at UK Climbing
  • Daniel Jung and Dai Koyamada Send Corona 5.15a in Frankenjura at Gripped
• Italy
  • Brenta Dolomites: new rock climb up Cima Tosa at Planet Mountain
  • Black Pearl, new Riegler rock climb in Val Lunga, Dolomites at Planet Mountain
• UK
  • Will Bosi climbs Hubble 9a at UK Climbing

Climbing Tips

• Sponsor Content: Simul-climbing with a Tibloc at Climbing
• Is Dropped Gear Still Safe? at Rock & Ice
• Steph Davis, Unpacked: From Desert Towers to Indian Creek Craggin’ at Rock & Ice (This article is basically Steph Davis’s packing lists for different adventures.)
• Learn This: Better Clipping and Extension Techniquesa to Climbing
• Belaying an XL – Tips for Lightweight Climbers at Rock & Ice
• In Defense of the European Death Knot at Climbing
• Learn to Climb Trad: A Complete Beginner’s Guide at Climbing

Other Climbing Articles

• 8 Climbing Artists You Should Know at Climbing
• The Sharing of The Rack at The Climbing Zine
• The alleged sandbag at For the Love of Climbing
• 10 Canadian Bouldering Gyms, Opened and Opening at Gripped
• 10 More Rad Canadian Bouldering Gyms at Gripped
• The Pleasure and Pain of the Climbing Life at The New York Times

Destinations and Routes

• Washington Sandbags by Blake Herrington
• Gogarth New Routing by Dan McManus

Good New Climbing Videos

• Solo’s And Mixed Climbing: Brette Harrington’s Reel Rock Epic | Climbing Daily Ep.798 [4:14] – Brette Harrington talks about hard free soloing and mixed climbing.
• As Long As Life Endures: A Climber Wedding [6:15] – If you’r egoing to get married, why not do it on one of the more iconic walls in the Sierra?
• Jeremy Fullerton crushes Don’t Get Too Greedy V13! [2:58] – Fullerton talks about his process of sending a hard V13 in Rocky Mountain National Park.
• Athlete’s Interview – Jain Kim [3:27] – Video interview (interspersed with climbing footage) of a top Korean competition climber.
• Denis Urubko story – part 1 [6:58] – This video is the first in a series profiling Denis Urubko, one of the best Himalayan climbers ever.
• This is Yorkshire N’All [19:43] – A great longer film about Yorkshire bouldering.
• A Weekend In Wales [9:55] – Beautiful footage of equally beautiful bouldering in Wales.
• Hayden Bove on The Doggfather (5.12b) [4:27] – A nice little film about a hard sport climb in Vermont.

Interviews and Profiles

• INTERVIEW: Claire Buhrfeind on Embracing Herself as a Strong Female Climber, Her Transition to College, and Climbing for Team Texas at Coffee. Tape. Climb.
• Climber Spotlight: Beth Rodden on Redpointing Tips, Training, and Nutrition at Moja Gear
• Nalle Hukkataival talks 9A at UK Climbing
• INTERVIEW: Nalle Hukkataival, the nature of climbing 9 at UK Climbing
• Chongo By The Power by Andy Kirkpatrick

Gear, Reviews, etc.

• None this week