This Week in Climbing #6 (November 22, 2015)
This is a roundup of all of the best rock climbing-related news from the past week. Feel free to submit things to me throughout the week if you have a climbing blog or come across a great video or find something else that you think is interesting. And if you want to subscribe to This Week in Climbing via email, there is now a signup form in the sidebar.
– Tristan
New on The Undercling
Climbing News
- AMERICAS
- Early Season Ice Accidents Remind Us To Play Safe at Gripped
- La Divina Providencia, Franchini brothers forge new mixed climb on Nevado Churup in Peru at Planet Mountain
- Marc-Andre Leclerc Frees Big El Cap Route (Muir Wall, VI 5.13c) at Gripped
- Bozeman Ice World Cup Wall Damaged by Wind Storm at Gripped
- Jimmy Webb’s Southern Drawl (V14) Contender for Hardest in Southeast at DPM
- Climber Dies in a Fall at Dishman Hills, Washington at Rock and Ice
- Temporary Moratorium on New Fixed Anchors at Castle Rocks State Park at The Access Fund
- Barry Blanchard Wins Boardman/Tasker Award at Gripped
- Katie Bono Sends Lightning (M13), Sets New Standard at Gripped
- ASIA
- Thalay Sagar, Beats of Freedom and the attempt by Daniele Nardi & Co in the Indian Himalaya at Planet Mountain
- El Capitan’s El Niño Freed by Jacopo Larcher and Barbara Zangerl at UK Climbing
- Himalaya Fall 2015: Risk and Reward on Manaslu – A Review of the Season at The Adventure Blog
- New Routing in China’s Gangga Range at Alpinist
- Lachit Valley: Poles climb new routes in Pakistan’s Tagas mountains at Planet Mountain
- Accident: Taboche’s North Buttress at Alpinist
- Magnificent New Route in India at Climbing
- EUROPE
- IFSC Lead World Cup Kranj: Report at UK Climbing
- The story of two worlds, ~8C, by Martin Stránik at UK Climbing (See also DPM.)
- Stefano Carnati climbs Coup de Grace 9a in Val Bavona, Switzerland at Planet Mountain
- La farfalla Nera, new mixed climb up Cima Bifora, Monte Nero di Presanella at Planet Mountain
- Marmolada Bruderliebe first repeat by Alessandro Rudatis at Planet Mountain
- Edu Marin repeats Chilam Balam, ~9b at UK Climbing
- New E7 6b for Calum Muskett: Ginger Ninja at UK Climbing
- Ueli Steck reclaims the Eiger North Face speed record: UK Climbing, Planet Mountain, Climbing, Rock & Ice, Gripped. There’s also a video.
- Gabriele Moroni frees Sid Lives 9a at Nago (Arco) at Planet Mountain
- Big Sends in Europe This Week by Top Climbers at Gripped
- Jonathan Siegrist Crushes Papichulo (5.15a) at Rock and Ice
- 5.15a FA for Ondra and More News from Europe at DPM
- Jakob Schubert claims Zillertal’s first 9a at Planet Mountain
Climbing Articles
- Alex Honnold, Rock Star at The Wall Street Journal
- Nik Berry: Inspiration in Lone Peak Cirque at Black Diamond
- The Art of Early Season Ice Climbing at American Alpine Institute Blog
- Climbing Fitness #7: Happy Hips and High Steps at Gripped
- Back in the Trad at Splitter Choss
- Unbelayvable: Bolt Hangers Aren’t Toprope Anchors at Climbing
- How to Keep Climbing When the Temp Drops at Crux Crush
- Move of the Month 9: Breathing (Improve Your Climbing) by Alli Rainey
- Why Do I Suck At Climbing Some Days?!? Part 2: Readiness Monitoring at Training Beta
- Why I Climb… by Rob Pizem
- Training with Justen Sjong, Part 2 by Andrew Bisharat
- 5 Recovery Tools Every Climber Should Have at Evening Sends
- Six Rockies Classic WI6 Ice Climbs at Gripped
- The Sisterhood of the Rope by Rhiannon Williams at The Climbing Zine
Good Climbing Videos
- Alex Puccio Crushes The Classics (Stained Glass V10, Direction V13, The Swarm V13) In Bishop [8:20; EpicTV]
- Jain Kim On the Rocks [5:19]
- Alex Honnold – A Normal Climbing Day in Chile [2:15]
- Sounds of a Brand [2:02] – The sounds involved in making a pair of La Sportiva climbing shoes.
- Endless and Sunshine at Rock Climber Life – Vlog from a trip to the New River Gorge.
- Lynn Hill Hall of Fame Induction Video [4:57]
- First Ascent of High Times in Tuolumne [4:57]
- Investing in the Stefan Glowacz Masterpiece, “Desert Gold” (5.13a) [4:35]
- Crack Climbs & Land Mines: Alex Honnold in Angola – Trailer [1:04] – Not a whole lot of actual climbing footage in this trailer, but it looks like a grand adventure.
Interviews
- The Greening of Alex Honnold at Sustainable Play – Not so much about climbing, but come on, it’s Alex Honnold.
- There’s More to Alex Honnold Than Free Soloing at Outside – Yet another non-climbing interview with Alex Honnold
Gear Reviews
- Petzl Laser Speed Light Ice Screws at Climbing Gear Reviews
- The Best Small Cams by Blake Herrington
- Gear review: Hyperlite Mountain Gear pack at For the Love of Climbing
- Singing Rock Garnet Review at Rock Climber Life
Trip Reports
- Pembroke: Being rescued can be dangerous at Cold Mountain Kit
- Cottonwood Canyons – Bros Trip VI at SuperTopo
- A Month in the Canadian Rockies at UK Climbing
- ‘Murica Part 1: The Rocky Road to Mount Watkins (Yosemite Valley) at The Climbing Obscurist
- Chilliwack Slam: Spickard, Rahm, Custer, Redoubt, SE Mox at Summitpost
Other Stuff
- Basecamp Podcast with Boardman Tasker Winner Jules Lines at Gripped
- New Highline World Record is Half-a-Kilometre Long at Gripped – Technically not climbing related, but still… And there’s a video here. And a much better video here.
- Sendless at Endless at Cragmama – A New River Gorge TR.
