This Week in Climbing #13 (January 10, 2016)
Here’s all the interesting stuff that went on in the rock climbing, ice climbing, and mountaineering world during the week of January 4 to January 10, 2016.
Climbing News
AMERICAS
- Necessary Evil (5.14c) for B. J. Tilden at DPM
- New Ice Crag in Northern Ontario at Gripped
- AAC Supports Two Cutting-Edge Expeditions at Climbing
- Richard Wright Passes Away at Climbing
- Fitz Roy Road-to-Road in a Day at Climbing (See also Planet Mountain.)
- Angelika Rainer climbs The Mustang (M14-) at Vail in Colorado at Planet Mountain
- 2016 Lyman Spitzer Cutting Edge Award Winners Announced at Alpinist
ASIA
- 8c+ and 8b in China for Newberry and Frugtniet at UK Climbing
EUROPE
- Monk Life 8B+ for Dan Turner at UK Climbing
- Two ~8c+’s by Jessy Pilz at UK Climbing
- 8c Ticks in Spain for Pope and Dawson at UK Climbing
- Mur del Pisciadù, Dolomites icefall climbed by Baumgartner cousins at Planet Mountain
- Planta de Shiva, 9b, by Jakob Schubert at UK Climbing (See also Planet Mountain and this podcast interview with Schubert.)
Climbing Articles
- Managing Your Sleep System: Pads and Padding at American Alpine Club Blog
- Winter Training Strategies: Looking Beyond Simply Strength Training For Climbing by Alli Rainey
- Remembering John: A Tribute to John Ellison at UK Climbing
- Campus Training 101 by Will Anglin
- How to Conquer Roof Climbing at Crux Crush
- Fingerboard and Campus Board for Beginners at Training Beta
- Climbing Partners: Past, Present and Future by Rob Pizem
- New Years Resolutions by Dave MacLeod
- Learn This: Master Dynos (With Tips From Sean McColl) at Climbing
Good New Climbing Videos
- Basic Ice Climbing Technique [5:44]
- Jah Man Free Solo Base Climb [2:57]
- “Epochalypse” V13 and the FA of “The Fountain of Youth” V12 [6:07]
- From the Woodshop of Rockstar Volumes [3:30]
- Beto Rocasolano haciendo 2 8B+ y un 8C Teverga, Asturias [7:46]
- Winter Break in Hueco [11:15]
- Sarchasm :: Paige Claassen [3:04]
- L. Matyas – Climbing the FULL replica of Action Directe [2:58]
- “The Warhawk (P-40)” (M14), The Fang Amphitheater, East Vail, CO [5:09]
- Escalade: Romain Pagnoux, portrait, dispo en 4K [16:08] – Be sure to turn on closed captioning if you don’t speak French.
- Little Cottonwood Canyon Bouldering Fall 2015 [3:53]
Gear Reviews
- DMM Mithril Review at Climbing Gear Reviews
- Rubbit at DPM
- Equipment Review: Camp Cassin Blade Runner Crampons at The American Alpine Institute Blog
Other Stuff
- PODCAST: Interview with Jakob Schubert at UK Climbing
