This Week in Climbing #22 (March 27, 2016)
Here’s all of the best and most interesting rock climbing stuff that happened over the last week. Enjoy!
- Big New Mixed Routes at Quebec’s Lac du Cap at Gripped
- El Chaman Loco, new rock climb in Mexico by Maggioni, Marazzi and Pedeferri at Planet Mountain
- Margo Hayes and Sean Bailey Win USA Sport Climbing Nationals at DPM
- Remembering Eric Klimt at Alpinist
- Legendary American Climber Glen Dawson Lives to 103 at Gripped (See also Alpinist.)
- Pure Imagination, 8c+ (5.14c), by Margo Hayes at UK Climbing
- Ashima Becomes First Female, and Youngest Person, to Climb V15 at DPM (See also UK Climbing, Planet Mountain, and Climbing.)
- Rokudou, ~8C (V15), by Koyamada at UK Climbing (See also Gripped.)
- Stefano Carnati climbs Cornalba’s Goldrake 9a+ (5.15a) at Planet Mountain
- 3 Satellites, 8c+ (5.14c), flash by Jakob Schubert at UK Climbing
- Papichulo (5.15a) for Matty Hong at DPM (See also Gripped.)
- New E8 Crack on Mull for Dave MacLeod: Ice Burn at UK Climbing
- Emma Twyford Flashes Gravity Wave E8 at UK Climbing
- Two Bodies Found on Ben Nevis at UK Climbing
- Up Your Game with an Online Climbing Coach at Crux Crush
- Climbing Training and Being Stuck by Steph Davis
- Strength Training to Improve Your Climbing: Lifts I Love (3) – Bench Press by Alli Rainey
- Suspension Training for Rock Climbing at Rock & Ice
- How to Maximize Comfort at Hanging Belays at Climbing
- Punk in the Gym: Shrivel-Dick in the Lakes at Evening Sends
- Protecting Abbey Country – Love Letters To The Desert at The Climbing Zine
- Climbing Destination Guide: Devils Tower, Wyoming at Moja Gear
- Climbing Destination: Refugio Frey, Argentina at Crux Crush
Good New Climbing Videos
- Sport & Speed National Championships • Finals • 3/19/16 • 6:45PM EDT [2:35:36] – If you’re into watching indoor competition climbing, check this out.
- 【塩原】バベル ５段＋ [3:09] – Not the highest-quality video, but it’s a pretty cool V15.
- “The Lion, the Witch and the Wardrobe” (WI7+, M12 traditional), Chapters 1, 2, and 3 – A few different videos containing footage from Will Mayo’s epic new ice/mixed route.
- The cold and smelly breath of death, 8B+/8C, Dorotea, Puerto Natales, Patagonia, Chile – One of Latin Americas hardest Boulders [5:38] – Pirmin Bertle, the great climber with a name straight out of a Harry Potter book, puts up a new V14/V15 boulder problem in Patagonia.
- Jon Cardwell Ascending “Shadow Boxing” 5.14d [6:39] – A hard ascent in Rifle, Colorado.
- Bootcamp: Dan Mirsky and Sam Elias – Two nice videos on how two climbers train.
- Now That’s What I Call a First Ascent – EP3 – The Long Hope – Dave MacLeod [12:43] – Dave MacLeod does what he does best: climbing crazy hard and crazy dangerous routes.
- „ANUBIS“ – DANI ARNOLD COMPLETES FIRST REPEAT [5:32] – Dani Arnold repeats Dave MacLeod’s crazy hard Scottish winter route.
- Ueli Steck in Les Drus “North Couloir Direct” (VI, Al 6+, M8) [3:03] – Nothing super fancy, just very cool footage of Ueli Steck climbing a stunning mixed Alpine route.
Interviews and Profiles
Gear, Reviews, etc.
- La Sportiva Genius Review at Splitter Choss