This Week in Climbing #26 (May 1, 2016)

Ok, after taking a few weeks off, here’s all of the best and most interesting rock climbing stuff that happened over the last week. Enjoy!

Climbing News

AMERICAS

• Canada
  • KLO Creek in Kelowna is B.C.’s New Sport Crag at Gripped
  • New Crack Climbs in Northwestern Ontario at Gripped
• USA
  • Rob Pizem sends new multipitch 5.13 in Zion by Rob Pizem

ASIA

• China
  • Shauna Coxsey and Tomoa Narasaki win Chongqing stage of Bouldering World Cup 2016 at Planet Mountain
• Japan
  • Another Gold for Shauna Coxsey in Japan at UK Climbing (See also Crux Crush.)
• Himalaya
  • Alex Lowe’s Body Found on Shishapangma at Outside
  • Climbers Die on Everest and Shishapangma at Gripped

EUROPE

• Spain
  • Papichulo, 9a+, by Said Belhaj at UK Climbing
• UK
  • The Quarryman Groove by Caroline Ciavaldini at UK Climbing
  • New 12-Skyhook E9  by James McHaffie: House of Talons at UK Climbing (See also Planet Mountain.)

Climbing Articles

• How to Stay Strong When You’re Not Climbing at Conquer the Crux
• Featured Photographer: Becca Skinner at Moja Gear
• #climbergirlproblems at Crux Crush
• Make Your Own Climbing Hold Mug at Climbing
• Ultimate Rock Climbing Skin Care Handbook at Climbing
• In Defense of University Climbing Walls at Crux Crush
• Weight Loss Timing at Climbing Nutrition
• Are Self-Braking Belay Devices Hands-Free? at Climbing
• Flash: Climbing Photos—Hawaii Bouldering, Niagara Falls Ice, and More at Climbing
• Training: 16 Climbing Games at Climbing
• Semi-Rad: Good Days on Bad Routes at Climbing
• Flowchart: Can You Skip the Climbing Gym Tonight? at Climbing

Destinations, Routes, etc.

• A Visit with The Emperor: Mt. Robson, Infinite Patience at Alpinist
• A Family Climbing Vacation to Formerly War-Torn Croatia at Climbing
• Climbing Destination Guide: Joe’s Valley, Utah at Moja Gear
• Five Fun Moderate Banff Multi-Pitch Sport Routes at Gripped
• Climbing Techniques: How to Undercling at Climbing

Good New Climbing Videos

• Adam Ondra Stoking the fire 9b [4:53] – Adam Ondra works on Sharma’s Stoking the Fire (9b) in Santa Linya, Spain.
• Haywire [14:29] – Cheyne Lempe and David Allfrey head to Baffin Island to climb up big walls.
• “The Fine line” – Ruben Firnenburg working “Seleccio Natural” (9a) in Santa Linya [9:34] – Working a hard route in beautiful Spain.
• Adam Ondra Attempts The World’s First 9a+ Flash | Epic Climber Spain, Ep. 2 [8:29]
• The Developer’s Craft [9:34] – A short film about first ascents.

Interviews and Profiles

• Jon Sedor: How To Stay Psyched – Even When You Lose a Hand by Friction Labs
• Kajsa Rosén and her perfect climbing state of mind at Oliana at Planet Mountain
• The Indigenous Female Climbers of Bolivia at Adventure Journal

Gear, Reviews, etc.

• Review: Cassin X-All Mountain Ice Tools at The Alpine Start
• Black Diamond Ultralight Camalot vs. Metolius Ultralight Master Cam Comparison Guide at Moja Gear
• The Bold and Cold Book is About 25 Canadian Rockies Alpine Routes at Gripped
• Review: Our Top 5 Approach Shoes at Climbing