This Week in Climbing #45 (December 4, 2016)
Here’s all of the best and most interesting rock climbing stuff that happened over the last week. Enjoy, and happy climbing!
Climbing News
AMERICAS
- Canada
- USA
- El Cap’s Heart Route (5.13b V10) Sees Second Free Ascent at Rock & Ice (See also Gripped and Planet Mountain.)
- Matty Hong Sends Old Red River Gorge Project at 5.14c at Gripped
- Zangerl and Larcher make the third free ascent of Zodiac on El Capitan at Alpinist
- Adam Ondra Tips His Hat to Yosemite Senders at Gripped
ASIA
- China
- Japan
- Toshi Takeuchi Climbs New V15 in Japan at Gripped
- Jordan
- Adventures in Wadi Rum for Muskett and McManus at UK Climbing
- Kyrgyzstan
- Mountaineering: new Austrian climbs in Kyrgyzstan at Planet Mountain
AUSTRALIA
- Blog – Bert’s New Bolts: an ethical debate at Vertical Life
Climbing Tips
- Releasing an Auto-Blocking Device at The American Alpine Institute Blog
- Learn to Climb Trad: Knots, Rappelling, and Logistics at Climbing
- DMM Cam Maintenace at DMM
- Unbelayvable: A Missed Catch at Climbing
- More, on the EDK at Rock & Ice
- 7 Tips for Living in Your Car with Your Partner at Moja Gear
- Cold, Cold World – Tips for Staying Warm at Rock & Ice
- When to Start Lead Climbing? by Steph Davis
- Making a Climber at Vertical Life
- Simul-Rappel Goes Tragically Wrong – Reed’s Pinnacle, Yosemite at Rock & Ice
Other Climbing Articles
- Should You Top Rope It?: A Flow Chart Guide at Coffee. Tape. Climb.
- A Theoretically Perfect Climbing Rope at Climbing
- Photo Gallery: 5.14 in RMNP, Zimbabwe Bouldering, and a Tribute at Climbing
Destinations and Routes
- PHOTO GALLERY: Rock and Ice Photo Camp – Rifle, Colorado at Rock & Ice
- Swansong Part 1: Journey to a Bitter Sea at The Climbing Obscurist
Good New Climbing Videos
- Tarragó Plus, 8c, 240m [3:25] – Edu Marin climbs the multi-pitch Tarrago (8b+ or 5.14a) at Montserrat, Spain, and adds an 8c variation. Very cool aerial photography in this one.
- Trailer Directissima [1:55] – This is only a trailer, but it’s got some incredible footage of stunning new ice lines in Quebec.
- Ashima Shiraishi: A Strong Mind [5:43] – A profile of one of the strongest climbers in the world today, 15-year-old Ashima Shiraishi.
- Sharpening Tools-HD [7:09] – A helpful video on sharpening ice tools and crampons.
- Aller Aller [2:58] – Jeff Mercier climbs an incredibly steep drytool line (rated D13) in the Lake District. Seriously impressive and physical climbing.
- The Commitment Series Ep. 3 – Greg Boswell: Dedication [3:29] – A video profile of Greg Boswell, one of the UK’s strongest Scottish winter climbers.
- Blocheads The Extras – Ned Zepplin [3:55] – This short and sweet (and funny) video shows the first ascent of a very slopey, mantely boulder problem in the UK.
- A Fool with some Tools [0:31] – A very short video showing a drytooling fall that nearly ended in disaster.
- Tis The Season [2:21] – Ice climbing in Wyoming!
- Packing For A Day Of Ice Climbing [6:08] – Exactly what it says in the title.
People, Interviews, and Profiles
- Adam Ondra – Dawn Wall Interview at Rock & Ice
- Thomas Huber: a ground fall, Latok I and the gratitude for being alive at Planet Mountain
- Jorg Verhoeven – Dihedral Wall Interview at Rock & Ice
- Interview – Campbell Harrison on 2016 at Vertical Life
- INTERVIEW: Venables and Richardson on South Georgia at UK Climbing
- Jim Detterline touched many lives as a climbing ranger in Rocky Mountain Nat’l Park at Alpinist
- Girl Crush of hte Month: Libby Peter at Crux Crush
- Interview – Tiffany Melius, Australian Women’s Boulder Champion 2016 at Vertical Life
- Athlete’s Interview – Stefano Ghisolfi [4:09] – Interview with Italian pro climber Stefano Ghisolfi.
Gear, Reviews, etc.
- Review: Mammut Wall Rider Climbing Helmet at The Alpine Start
- Book Review: Hans Florine’s On The Nose — A Lifelong Obsession with Yosemite’s Most Iconic Climb at Moja Gear
- The Farmer’s Market of Outdoor Goods: An Intro to Hidden Collective at Crux Crush
- Climber’s Christmas Gift Guide Part 1: Top 5 for 2016 at The Alpine Start
- Climber’s Christmas Gift Guide Part 2: Stocking Stuffers 2016 at The Alpine Start
- Review: Black Diamond Ultralights at The Climbing Zine
- Gear You Ought to Know: Grivel’s Twin Gate Carabiners at Moja Gear
- 2016 Holiday Gift Guide for Climbers at Splitter Choss (This is my favorite of the gift guides listed here.)
- The Edelrid Boa Eco 9.8 Rope is a Workhorse at Gripped
