This Week in Climbing #51 (January 15, 2017)
Here’s all of the best and most interesting rock climbing stuff that happened over the last week. Enjoy, and happy climbing!
Climbing News
AMERICAS
- Canada
- New East Coast Mixed Routes on Bay of Fundy at Gripped
- Patagonia
- USA
- Chris Snobeck Makes Third Ascent of Saphira M15 at Gripped (See also Rock and Ice.)
- James Pearson Repeats Carbondale Short Bus in Indian Creek at Gripped
- Magic line, 8c (5.14b), repeated after 20 years at UK Climbing
ASIA
- China
- Japan
- Daisuke Ichimiya Gets Third Ascent of Horizon V15 at Gripped (See also UK Climbing.)
- Nepal
EUROPE
- France
- Délire Onirique assis, ~8C/V15, first ascent by (Barefoot) Charles Albert at UK Climbing
- Jeff Mercier climbs new variation to Beyond Good and Evil on Aiguille des Pélerins, Mont Blanc at Planet Mountain
- New Line on Aiguille des Pélerins by Jeff Mercier at UK Climbing
- Nico Favresse Sends 5.14d Before Patagonia Trip at Gripped
- Italy
- La Bruixa, new ice climb in Val Zemola, Dolomites at Planet Mountain
- Tom Ballard finishes the year with back-to-back rope-solo ascents at Alpinist
- All-in, difficult new ice and mixed climb on Sas del Pegorer in the Dolomites at Planet Mountain
- Slovenia
- Spain
- Two 8c+s in Spain by Pete Dawson at UK Climbing
- Switzerland
- Jeff Lowe’s Eiger Metanoia finally repeated by Thomas Huber, Stephan Siegrist and Roger Schaeli at Planet Mountain (See also UK Climbing and Alpinist.)
- World Champion Alexey Rubtsov Sends First V15 at Gripped
Climbing Tips
- Should You Clip the Belay As Your First Lead Pro? at Rock and Ice
- How to Prevent Ankle Sprains in Bouldering at The Climbing Doctor
- Sprinter Van Training Systems by Steph Davis
- Winter Novice Kit by Andy Kirkpatrick
- Note to self: How not to fall off ice climbing by Will Gadd
Other Climbing Articles
- Dirtbag Dwellings: Kaya and Michael of Santa Cruz at Moja Gear
- 6 Tips for Surviving Long Car Trip at Coffee. Tape. Climb.
- 15 Rad #GrippedMagazine Photos from This Week at Gripped
- Out on a Ledge: The Curated Image at Climbing
- Essay: An Ode to the Developers at Moja Gear
- Grasping at Draws: Ego Kills at Climbing
- Climbing for Likes: the Social Media Trap at Evening Sends
- Learn This: Alpine Cooking 201 at Climbing
- Five Reasons to Buy Climbing Magazines at Gripped
Destinations and Routes, etc.
- Chulilla Epiphany by Nick Bullock
- Perfect Conditions by Rob Pizem
- Fitz Roy by Blake Herrington
Good New Climbing Videos
- Vlog 014 – Indian Creek’s Hardest Route? [9:05] – James Pearson works the 5.14 trad route Carbondale Short Bus at Indian Creek.
- V and 0-Thread [8:03] – How to make V- and O-threads for ice climbing.
- TWO FIRST ASCENTS 8B, BY CHRIS SHARMA, ERIC LÓPEZ AND POL ROCA IN LA COVA DE L’OCELL [5:02] – Chris Sharma and friends put up some hard new boulder problems in Spain.
- Michaela Kiersch and The Golden Ticket [16:01] – Michaela Kiersch tries for the first female ascent of The Golden Ticket (5.14c).
- The Lion (5.12c) Little River Canyon [9:10] – If you’re one of those sick people who likes to watch free soloing videos, check this one out. Austin Howell solos a 5.12c severely overhanging sport route.
- Virgin Gorda [3:51] – Bouldering in beachy, sun-kissed paradise.
People, Interviews, and Profiles
- Meet The Maker: Organic Climbing, Made In The USA at Gear Junkie
- Rob Robinson: The Father of Chattanooga Trad Climbing at Climbing
- The Japanese Caribou and Mount Hunter in Winter Solo at Gripped
- Simon Moro: The Winter Maestro at Climbing
Gear, Reviews, etc.
- Film Review: Reel Rock 11 at The American Alpine Institute Blog
- Gear review: The new Black Canyon Guidebook at For the Love of Climbing
- New 2017 Petzl Sirocco Helmet is Light and Strong at Gripped
- Sportiva TX4 by Andy Kirkpatrick
- Climbing Gear from Winter Outdoor Retailer 2017 at Gripped