This Week in Climbing #36 (October 2, 2016)
Here’s all of the best and most interesting rock climbing stuff that happened over the last week. Enjoy, and happy climbing!
Climbing News
AMERICAS
- Canada
- New 5.11 in Quebec at Area Hopefully Open Soon at Gripped
- New Big Rock Climb on Bedson Ridge in Jasper at Gripped
- Patagonia
- Peru
- Puscanturpa Este, French forge new route in Peru at Planet Mountain
- USA
- Much Mayr and Guido Unterwurzacher repeat The Shaft on El Capitan, Yosemite at Planet Mountain
- Crusher Daniel Woods Climbs New V16 in Colorado at Gripped (See also UK Climbing.)
- Kevin Jorgeson and Ben Rueck Free 1960 Yosemite Aid Line at Gripped
ASIA
- New Route on Kyzyl-Asker: an Interview with Oleg Khvostenko at Alpinist
- Great Wall of China: An interview with Denis Prokofyev at Alpinist
EUROPE
- Austria
- France
- Martina Cufar climbs her second 8c at Bionnassay at Planet Mountain
- Italy
- Red Bull, 8c, 3rd go by Laura Rogora, 15 at UK Climbing
- PukaNaka, new rock climb up Sas Tamersc, Fanes, Dolomites at Planet Mountain
- Slovenia
- Maja Vidmar climbs 8c+ at Bohinjska Bela in Slovenia at Planet Mountain
- Switzerland
- Kilian Fischhuber claims first repeat of Headless Children in Rätikon at Planet Mountain
- UK
- Two ‘Cutting Edge’ North Wales Arêtes by James McHaffie at UK Climbing
- British Lead & Speed Climbing Championships and Paraclimbing Cup at UK Climbing
- Black Rocks Vandalised – Police Appeal for Information at UK Climbing
Climbing Tips
- Unbelayvable: Alan, You’re Off Belay at Climbing
- Nutrition Essentials for Climbers at Climbing
- Hang Just Right: Shoulder Maintenance For Climbers at Black Diamond
Other Climbing Articles
- Minivan Adventures With Married People at The Climbing Zine
- What the Hell is Speed Climbing? at Climbing
- First at the Grade at Vertical Life
- The Wright Stuff: The Art of the Sandbag at Climbing
- The Olympics & the Battle for Climbing – Part I at Vertical Life (Also check out parts II and III.)
- The Future of Bolting at Climbing
Destinations and Routes
- Leslie Gulch’s Controversial Route-Building Laboratory at Climbing
- 10 of the World’s Hardest Sport Routes at Gripped
Good New Climbing Videos
- Backwoods Bouldering Southwest Montana [33:37] – Great film about bouldering in beautiful southwest Montana.
- El Juego Sumando [1:53] – A new route up a 1300-foot columnar basalt face in Peru. Cool!
- Andromeda Strain, Mt. Andromeda, Columbia Icefield, Jasper National Park, Alberta [4:30] – A big mixed route in the Canadian Rockies.
- The Aloha Project Chapter 3: Justin RIdgely [5:40] – Putting up amazing new problems in Hawaii.
- The Art of Climbing – Kilian Fischhuber Scales Headless Children [2:43] – Stunning multi-pitch climbing in the Alps.
- Jacopo Larcher on Rhapsody, Scottish E11 7a [4:46] – The fifth ascent of Dave MacLeod’s uber trad testpiece in Scotland.
Interviews and Profiles
- Dirtbag Dwellings: Van Life with Kyle Moran (and His Dog) of Pasadena, California at Moja Gear
- Five Limit Pushers by Canadian Marc-Andre Leclerc in Past Year at Gripped
- The Isabelle Faus Profile at Climbing
- Interview: The Future of Sharma at Climbing
- Kim Schmitz remembered for resilience and brightness in the mountains and in life at Alpinist
Gear, Reviews, etc.
- DMM Chimera Review at Climbing Gear Reviews
- Review: Evolv Cruzer Psyche Approach Shoe at The Alpine Start
