This Week in Climbing #46 (December 11, 2016)
Here’s all of the best and most interesting rock climbing stuff that happened over the last week. Enjoy, and happy climbing!
- 8c (5.14b) flash and 8c+ (5.14c) 2nd go by Kim Jain at UK Climbing
- British First Ascents in Miyar Valley: Report at UK Climbing
- South Korea
- Hymn, another ~8C (V15) first ascent by Chon Jongwon at UK Climbing
- Charles Albert Sends New V15 Climbing Barefoot at Gripped (See also UK Climbing.)
- La cicatrice de l’ohm, ~8B trav(?) by Melissa LeNevé at UK Climbing
- Russians win Golden Axe for Moveable Feast on Thalay Sagar at Alpinist
- Jour de chasse, ~8C (V15), by Alban Levier at UK Climbing
- New Hard Route on Eiger by Tom Ballard and Marcin Tomaszewski at Gripped (See also Planet Mountain and UK Climbing.)
- Learn This: Move Fast in Moderate Terrain at Climbing
- Failure to sleep 8hrs = failure to train by Dave MacLeod
- Sprinter Van Heater and Stove by Steph Davis
- 12 Tips to a Successful Bouldering Strategy at Moja Gear
- Dirtbag Tricks: How to Make a Stick Clip for Rock Climbing at Moja Gear
- Having Trouble Motivating to Train Alone? Try This Tactic! by Alli Rainey
- A Simple Shoulder-Saving Exercise Every Climber Should Do! by Natasha Barnes
- The Unsung Benefits of Yoga for Climbing (and 4 Yoga Sequences for Climbers) at Training Beta
- Unbelayvable: A Surprise Visitor at Climbing
Other Climbing Articles
- When Do Aid Climbs Stop Being Aid Climbs? at Evening Sends
- A climber’s responsibility at For the Love of Climbing
- (On Bear’s Ears) Dear Sally Jewel, by Chris Kalman at The Climbing Zine
Destinations and Routes
- A Mixed Bag of Nuts – Canada’s Top Mixed Routes at Gripped
- Of Ghosts and Gracks: On Becoming a Yosemite Climber at Moja Gear
- Close Calls On Japanese Ice With Will Gadd at Arc’teryx
- The German Way: Sonnie Trotter and Alex Megos in Frankenjura and Elbsanstein at Climbing
- Lost in Tokyo: Traveling and Climbing in Japan at Climbing
Good New Climbing Videos
- Dynos [3:10] – Fun little video showing nothing but big dynos on boulder problems.
- David Mason in the Grampians [8:40] – A simple video showing British climber David Mason bouldering in the Grampians. Here is another, very similar video featuring Mina Leslie-Wujastyk.
- CORONA [8:16] – Josef Kristoffy and Michal Bado make the first ascent of Corona (5.14c), the hardest trad route in the High Tatras of Poland.
- Nyainqentangla South East, Nick Bullock [12:36] – Nick Bullock and Paul Ramsden on the FA of a big route in Tibet. A good little adventure flick.
- Chris Sharma, Pol Roca, Eric López, Training Day [5:37] – Sharma and crew spend the day playing around at Sharma’s gym in Barcelona.
- Paige Claassen: Tiny Holds And Tenacity On Idaho Test Piece [4:57] – Paige Clasasen and Emily Harrington head to Idaho to climb some sweet 5.14 sport routes.
- Stride Health: Alex Honnold Solos Lover’s Leap in Dan Osman Tribute [1:17] – Honnold, heavy metal, a mullet, and more.
- Wide Boyz: Staffordshire Nose [3:58] – Pete Whittaker and Tom Randall take on The Stafforshire Nose, 31 routes that roughly equal in size The Nose of El Capitan.
- GoPro: Ice Climbing Interstellar Spice [6:15] – Awesome ice climbing in Canada.
- dai koyamada’s short movie “Stratos” V12/13 [5:28] – Japanese super-climber climbs a hard new boulder problem at Hiei Miyazaki, Japan.
People, Interviews, and Profiles
- INTERVIEW: Margo Hayes on Her Semester in France, Three Gold Medals at the World Youth Championships, and Gaining Confidence Through Climbing Outside at Coffee. Tape. Climb.
- Silvio Reffo shoots up Hotel Supramonte and Mezzogiorno di Fuoco in Sardinia at Planet Mountain
- What’s In Your Pack: Will Stanhope on Squamish, FAs, and Life After the Send at Moja Gear
- Public Lands and the Future of Advocacy: An Interview with Brady Robinson (Part I in an Interview Series) at Alpinist
- Pete Whittaker / Climbing interview after all-free rope-solo up El Capitan in a day at Planet Mountain
Gear, Reviews, etc.
- Climbing’s Best Accessories of 2016 at Evening Sends
- Dirtbag Gifts: Awesome Stuff Under 20 Bucks at Moja Gear
- Climbing Holiday Gift Guide: Luminoodle Light Rope at Climbing
- The Edelrid Jul 2 is Perfect for Climbing Gym Belays at Gripped
- Cheap Gifts for Climbers at The American Alpine Club Blog
- Review: Scarpa Vapor Lace at The Climbing Zine
- Grivel Air Tech Evolution Ice Axes Review at Climbing Gear Reviews
- Five Ten Access – Climbing Shoe Review at Rock & Ice
- Climbing Holiday Gift Guide: Arc’teryx Proton AR Hoody at Climbing
- Cypher Vesta Sport Quickdraw Review at Rock Climber Life
- Last-Minute Stocking Stuffers for Your Outdoorsy Family and Friends at Coffee. Tape. Climb.