This Week in Climbing #62 (May 21, 2017)

Here’s all of the best and most interesting rock climbing stuff that happened over the last week. Enjoy, and happy climbing!

Climbing News

AMERICAS

• Canada
  • Dancing Sasquatch is New Multi-pitch 5.7 in Banff at Gripped
  • Sebastian Pacey-Smith Sends Hard Nova Scotia Problems at Gripped
  • New Ontario Eyeball Crag is Big Granite Wall at Gripped
  • Marek Raganowicz adds big aid climbs to Baffin Island at Planet Mountain
  • New Spring 2017 Sport Routes Added to Bow Valley at Gripped
• USA
  • Hansjörg Auer and Much Mayr add new climb to Black Canyon, Colorado at Planet Mountain
  • Colin Haley solos North Buttress of Begguya (Mt. Hunter) round-trip in 17 hours at Alpinist

ASIA/AUSTRALIA

• Nepal
  • Everest Hillary Step collapsed at Planet Mountain
  • Mount Everest, no permit =’s Big Fine at Climb ZA

EUROPE

• Austria
  • Styrian Delirium, another ~8C first ascent by Christof Rauch at UK Climbing
• France
  • Tête de Biselx / Simon Chatelan climbs new route in Mont Blanc massif at Planet Mountain (See also Gripped.)
• Italy
  • TCT, second 9a onsight by Alex Megos at UK Climbing
• Norway
  • Adam Ondra Projecting Possible 5.15d in 2017 at Gripped
• Switzerland
  • Giuliano Cameroni climbs best problem ever in Valle Bavona at Planet Mountain
• UK
  • Moonrise Kingdom: New E9 Multipitch by McHaffie and Varian at UK Climbing
  • Keita Kurakami repeats Walk of Life E9 6c at UK Climbing  (See also Gripped.)
  • 105 V Points in an Hour by Pete Robins at UK Climbing

Climbing Tips

• Going to the bathroom by Andy Kirkpatrick
• Ask the Master: Double Ropes vs. Single Rope with a Tagline at Rock and Ice
• Unbelayvable: Oh, You Were Using That Anchor? at Climbing
• Climb Safe: Ascending Rappel Ropes 101 at Rock and Ice

Other Climbing Articles

• A Look at Lattice Training — Endurance, Power, Strength, and More at Moja Gear
• Climbing doesn’t change you at For the Love of Climbing
• But Did You Really Climb It? at Semi-Rad
• Precious Object – Ross Taylor at Vertical Life
• Fill The Void by Shay Skinner at The Climbing Zine
• Sports Cragging: A Definition You’ll Want to Know at Coffee. Tape. Climb.

Destinations, Routes, and Trip Reports

• Stanage: Making Memories at The Project Magazine
• Classic Routes: The Gunks’ Traverse of the Clods at Climbing
• Climbing Destination Guide: El Salto, Mexico at Moja Gear
• God’s Own: Yorkshire Moors at The Project Magazine
• The Push: Tommy Caldwell and Alex Honnold on the Fitz Traverse at Rock and Ice
• By the Numbers: Margo Hayes and the Road to 5.15 at Climbing

Good New Climbing Videos

• An Inside Look at Alex Honnold’s Adventure Van [3:41] – A tour of Alex Honnold’s sweet new home on wheels.
• Joe Kinder On the First Ascent of Bone Tomahawk [8:51] – Joe Kinder on the FA of a 5.14d/5.15a sport route near St. George, Utah.
• Time in the Red: Backwoods Development [16:46] – Adventurous new routing in Kentucky’s Red River Gorge.
• Rooftown Vol 2 featuring the bouldering exploits of Matt Gentile [22:50] – Exploring more amazing roof problems in the area around Flagstaff, Arizona.
• Siegrist and Honnold Climb the Clear Light Cave [7:00] – Jonathan Siegrist and Alex Honnold climb steep, steep limestone near Las Vegas.

People, Interviews, and Profiles

• INTERVIEW: Peter Habeler – The Eiger Nordwand at 74 at UK Climbing
• INTERVIEW: Fast Repeat of True North 8c by Pete Dawson at UK Climbing
• PODCAST – Jerry Moffatt at UK Climbing
• INTERVIEW: Keita Kurakami on The Walk of Life E9 6c at UK Climbing
• Mount Huntington South Ridge Traverse: Q&A with Clint Helander and Jess Roskelley at Climbing

Gear Reviews, etc.

• Black Diamond Gym 30 Review at Climbing Gear Reviews
• Fitting Rock Shoes to Problematic Feet at Rock and Ice
• Katy Holm Tests New Grivel Stealth Helmet at Gripped
• Best Beginner Climbing Helmet: A Review of the Black Diamond Half Dome at Moja Gear
• Diamox – The Wonder Drug? at The American Alpine Institute Climbing Blog

Photos

• Photo Gallery: Nina Williams, Michaela Kiersch, and More at Climbing
• Re-Gram: 9 Climber Bivy Photos at Climbing